Hey people? I'm new to the group (and to screen printing) but I am in other forums...However, I am the prepress director for a flexo label/tag printer (for 7+ years now). So I am not completely lost b/c the two mediums are similar (flexo/screen, at least in the screen prep aspect) but I still will have plenty of questions.
...I just started screen printing for fun first and then to see if I could turn a profit from it. I got a starter 1c kit from S-S-S for Xmas. So far so good...
Here is my main concern...
I am using International Coatings black ink and it is laying down with a rough (sort of gritty) texture to it. I mixed the ink pretty good but it still happens...Is a soft hand my best bet or are there any other tricks I can try or maybe there is something I am doing wrong? I am using a 110 mesh with a heat gun to cure (maybe I am not curing it properly?). Any suggestions/advice is greatly appreciated!
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ok ive been screen printing for about umm 4 months or longer.. and ive used 110 mesh the whole time pretty much seems to work best for plastisol inks fo r me anyways... i haven't worked with international coats but that might be your problem i use union ink and QCM (i think thats the name QMC one of the 2) but sometimes cure with a flash gun and works out fine hope i helped point you in some kind of a direction.
- corradomatt
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Different brands of ink can definatly produce very different results. When you're printing manually (especially with black it seems) through a 110 mesh it is sometimes very hard to produce a nice and smooth print. There are so many variables to it....like fabric texture, emulsion thickness, off contact, ect.
I have found that printing black ink through a 125 or 140 works better to produce a smoother print.
I have found that printing black ink through a 125 or 140 works better to produce a smoother print.
Screen Printing Supplies - Equipment, Ink, Emulsion and more!
You could just get a coated screen with no stencil burned into it and go over the black print. I use finesse (squeegee grease) just so it goes smoothly without tearing the screen or burning the edge.
This basically pushes the image down onto the shirt more. It may or may not work for you.
This basically pushes the image down onto the shirt more. It may or may not work for you.
.... I can give you my opinion but I can't tell you if it's right or not.
Just keep in mind that 110 and 156 screen mesh is fine for big blocky prints with lots of ink laydown...
As you get more experienced in printing...you will start to love the 190s - 230 mesh screens stretched really tight.
I print white underbases (manually and on auto) through a 190 and for my 4 color Process or sim process on darks, I usually run my underbase on a 230. I always print my black through nothing less than a 190.
Try adding a small amount of reducer to your ink...check your screen tension, off contact and maybe try a push stroke instead of pulling the squeegie. As far as the ink...maybe try Union or Wilflex.
Good Luck
Kros
Krosbone Graphix
krosbonez@hotmail.com
As you get more experienced in printing...you will start to love the 190s - 230 mesh screens stretched really tight.
I print white underbases (manually and on auto) through a 190 and for my 4 color Process or sim process on darks, I usually run my underbase on a 230. I always print my black through nothing less than a 190.
Try adding a small amount of reducer to your ink...check your screen tension, off contact and maybe try a push stroke instead of pulling the squeegie. As far as the ink...maybe try Union or Wilflex.
Good Luck
Kros
Krosbone Graphix
krosbonez@hotmail.com