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Nazdar 9700 series inks is what we used in the past. The ink basically air dries. You can run in through your dryer at a lower temp and a faster rate to spead up the drying. The ink will dry EXTREMELY fast in your screen, so when you get ready to print, get on it and go. Unless you have a vacuum table to hold the sign down you might deal with spider webbing and the screen sticking to the plastic. The make a retarder for the ink to help it from drying in your screen so fast, we never use it, just more expense.
[quote="Roadside"]I am looking to doing some coroplast lawn signs...
Anyone have any suggestions on INKS and tips to beware of?[/quote]
nazdar makes an ink speciffically for that......with others you have to use a hardner but not with the one for it....i forget its name but your ink supplier will know it
9700 is Not ideal on coro. Use nazdars 7900 corogloss. Thin the ink and add retarder- especially if you're printing manual. Print with squeegee across the flutes, never with the flutes. Nice off contact, 250-300 mesh
You can use Nazdar 79 series ink, been using it for 10 yrs. now never had a problem. Will not wipe off or fade. The ink will out last the corogated plastic. Thin that shit down about the thickness of oatmeal. Long as your printing area is not burning hot your sign will not stick to screen. If it does (and you do not have a vac table) Put some spray glue down. Hope this helps
Aaron Arm Bandit
Any one discuss UV ink. There are some advantages to using UV. 4 color process, many ink manufactures have a series that does not need additives, outdoor durability, less expensive per sq/ft than solvent, and no need for a 50ft dryer to run production.
Corogloss has worked okay for what we've used it on.
It usually takes up our screen tape in the screen on a long print run.
Also, stack the signs vertically at least until they have cooled down and especially if the sign is printed on both sides. Otherwise they will most likely stick to each other.