Ad blocker detected: Our website is made possible by displaying online advertisements to our visitors. Please consider supporting us by disabling your ad blocker on our website.
I'm a newbie with a question. I'm having trouble printing bright colors on dark shirts. I put a white down first with a 156 mesh and flash thoroughly but when I put the color on top I get the following problems:
1. there's still ink in the screen (no matter how much pressure I use)
2. the edges of the colored imprint is not clean (it appears rough and jagged)
3. the imprint does not have a smooth surface (kind of feels like sandpaper)
4. there's some serious dot gain
I've backed the pressure off hoping to fix #2 and #4 but I had other problems (like not enough ink to fill the whole image). I've also applied greater pressure to try to fix #1, but to no avail.
Will... its a common problem.
I run a 6 color auto as well. I use INTERNATIONAL COATINGS White
I normally have my flash set at 850 for 7-9 seconds. I have an temperature gun so It helps determine actual temperature of the flash. Since we have a COLD work area temp. gun was a great investment.
As for the coverage on the white
I have found 2 tricks work....
#1 if its a DETAIL GRAPHIC i use a rounded off squeege with a little angle. Pressure is important you have to find the sweet spot for your machine. I have an M&R so I can hit it will a double stroke and its good.
#2 Use 2 squeeges.... I have done this a few times instead of the flood.... use a squeege. Works but setup is a pain in the ass adjusting all the stuff.
Also try using a tighter mesh for your overprint colors. I like 110 range
I cant say I am the best but I have had good results with what I have listed.
.... I can give you my opinion but I can't tell you if it's right or not.
ROADSIDE wrote:#1 if its a DETAIL GRAPHIC i use a rounded off squeege with a little angle. Pressure is important you have to find the sweet spot for your machine. I have an M&R so I can hit it will a double stroke and its good.
I'm not familiar with rounded-off squeeges. What is a "little angle"? I double stroke (i.e. print...flash...print).
ROADSIDE wrote:Also try using a tighter mesh for your overprint colors. I like 110 range
I'm using 156 on the white and 230 on the overprint color. You recommend 110 on the overprint color? I'd have to go with a finer mesh on the white or I'd have a really heavy laydown, right?
you might try adding some reducer to your white ink if you are not clearing your screens. I have a tuf machine and it takes about four to eight shirts(test prints) for my white inks to flow nicely. I use the international white.
Try printing your white, flashing it, and printing it again. then laying down your top color. Sounds like to me that you are not get a good softhand with just one coat of white. You also want to make sure that your first coat cleans out of the screen good. Another problem with your top color not cleaning out of the screen good is that your underbase possibly isn't getting completely dry. Another suggestion is raising the offcontact of the top color. Just something I have learned along the way.
My personal preference when it comes to white ink is Rutland Supreme White and Rutland Skylar White. Both are good on dark shirts (50/50 & 100%) Great oppacity, and both are low-bleed. Another white that is good on 100% is Rutland Core White. The only problem is that it isn't low-bleed and when the polyester in a 50/50 gases off, the dye in the shirt bleeds into the ink.
Thanks to everyone for their input. I added reducer to the white ink. This allowed me to use less pressure to wipe the screen and use a finer mesh.
I changed the mesh for the underbase white from 158 to 230. This gave me a much softer hand and a smoother surface for the color on top. Wow, what a difference. Thanks again![/list]
Get a drill and one of those paint mixing attachments from home depot or walmart and mix the white ink until it is smooth and creamy. Doesn't matter what mesh count you use or what brand of ink if the white ink is like concrete. I learned this very recently. Warming it helps a bunch too. Warm and creamy white ink is wonderful stuff... you should have seen my first attempts before I new the secret... Now I can happily use white and have a smooth tshirt thanks to the experts who post on another site forum. Using reducer can decrease opacity and break down your ink...won't last as long in the container...
Deb
Now I can happily use white and have a smooth tshirt thanks to the experts who post on another site forum. Using reducer can decrease opacity and break down your ink...won't last as long in the container...